The Big Two-Hearted Surf Break

"He felt he had left everything behind, the need for thinking, the need to write, other needs. It was all back of him." - from The Big Two-Hearted River by Ernest Hemingway

For those new to this, a break is a surf-able wave. It is created by a shallow, sandy bottom or by a sand bar some distance from the beach.

It was cold. Colder than it was supposed to be. Colder than the energetic weather-woman had predicted on TV the night before. It was 46 degrees. That’s cold for this latitude this late in May.

There was no heat in…