Gerry Lopez 1948-
“Okay...I guess this is a good day to die!" - Lopez, upon entering the water to become the first “big wave” surfer
Bear with me, but I find a lot of similarity in the histories of surfing and Christianity.
Both began in simplicity and, over time, became too complicated to carry their own weight. Christianity was a simple movement realized from person to person and nimble in its spiritual expression, especially when compared …